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Sunday, September 13, 2020

That Perpetual Corn Bread Argument!

I was raised on cornbread and I still love it today as do most other natives of Appalachia. My wife, as I mentioned in my previous post about Shucked Beans, was raised in Wisconsin about halfway between Milwaukee and Green Bay and had never seen many historical Appalachian foods including Shucked Beans, pinto beans, squirrels, hog jaw, banana pudding, and cornbread.  After living 28 years in Appalachia, she loves them all and we eat them often at our house.  

Corn Bread, Photo by Depositphotos
When it comes to cornbread, we start with a small, cast iron skillet and a little olive oil, since we do not eat lard.  We grease the skillet and heat it on a stove top burner as the batter is being mixed.  We use one whole egg, a bit of baking powder, about half and half all purpose flour and cornmeal made from Appalachian Heritage corn and pour the batter in the skillet on the stove top.  When the batter hits the skillet, I like to hear that good sizzle you get from a hot skillet which helps give the bottom crust a good crisp, crunchy bite.  When most of the bubbles on the top of the batter have burst, we put the skillet in the oven at 350% for about 25 minutes.  At the end of that time, we switch the oven from bake to broil, move the rack just under the broiler burner, and watch it closely until it has that good, brown crust about the color of the hide of a "yaller" to ordinary brown dog.  

I like mine with a healthy chunk of butter placed in the middle of the portion.  My wife does not like the butter.  We have it often with homemade soups, pinto beans, shucked beans, and other more clearly Appalachian meals.  But we do not eat it with every meal.  But my wife often mentions a woman with whom she worked for several years who said that when she was growing up her father had to have pinto beans and cornbread on the table at every meal including breakfast.  That is a bit too much for me.  We also will sometimes have hoecakes for breakfast.  For those, we use our regular cornbread recipe but pour the batter in the hot skillet in same manner as you would use to make pancakes.  Cornbread hoecakes will never cook as thinly as wheat pancakes but we both love them with butter and maple syrup, or sometimes sorghum.  I also like to save my last hoecake to eat with a heavy slathering of apple butter.  Hoecakes are called that because they were often eaten for breakfast in homes where there was little food and if you ate two or three or four hoecakes for breakfast you could go to the fields and keep an old fashioned goose neck or "laid" hoe singing at least until lunch time.  Often, in some of those fields, leftover hoecakes were also what they had for lunch.  I also love corn bread and milk as a late night snack just before bed time.  But for an even more interesting snack, or nearly a complete meal try taking a bowl or large glass and dice up a good strong onion, mix the onion and cornbread in the container and pour ice cold buttermilk over it.  Since buttermilk is much thicker than sweet milk, as we called it in Eastern Kentucky, and you need to give it a little time to soak into the bread before you add a bit more buttermilk.  It is an awesome snack and I also like to sprinkle mine with black pepper. 

Throughout this blog post, I have not yet mentioned the "perpetual corn bread argument" which I mentioned in the title.  I am certain that nearly all devoted corn bread eaters already know what the argument is about.  You hear it all over the country wherever anybody cooks and eats corn bread.  Do you or do you not put sugar in your cornbread?  We do not and, Thank God, I was not raised that way.  To me putting sugar in cornbread is a lot asking a native of Milwaukee to refrain from putting a pat of butter on a hamburger.  It is sacrilege to put sugar in cornbread no matter what you think, Dear Reader!  My perpetual response to the perpetual corn bread argument is this:  "If you want to bake a bake a cake, bake a cake.  But don't put sugar in it and try to call it corn bread!" 

10 comments:

Unknown said...

Amen! No sugar in the cornbread! (Daddy says that's why it's called cornBREAD, not cornCAKE!) So says Sandra Valencia, daughter of Annalene Bates Ward, a woman from Weeksbury, KY who baked up some of the finest cornbread and biscuits this world has ever seen!

Anonymous said...

I agree with your cornbread recipe having grown up in WVa. However I’ve had the pleasure of eating spoon bread which is cornmeal with sugar- no flour and it is delicious! So maybe that’s where some people’s minds go when they think of sugar in cornbread.

Genia DeCoursey Hall said...

We make our cornbread very similar to yours. The only difference is a little more cornmeal than flour and a slosh of sweet milk or buttermilk. I prefer buttermilk. It gives it an even better taste, I think. We also "fry" the crust . Mom put a little extra oil in the skillet to get it to roll up the sides of the batter and make a crust there too. I love mine with melted butter too but I don't eat it in milk. Although I guess all my family did, especially in buttermilk. My husband, a mountain man, prefers sweet milk.
Sugar? Lord no! Disgusting.

Anonymous said...

I eat cornbread just about any way it is cooked (except I don't care for sugar) and my preference is a little more meal than flour. What you call a hoecake, I slather with mustard for a snack.

margrita baker said...

I totally agree with every word.I'm from East Tennessee and that's how we do it.

Anonymous said...

I had cornbread for supper. I don’t use an egg and NEVER use sugar, I use buttermilk and bake it at 425 in the oven.

Unknown said...

My father was from KY and our cornbread was like this. My mother was MI and her cornbread was with sugar and called Johnny Cake, so I grew up with always having two kinds at a meal

OtisT said...

I agree that sugar has no place in cornbread. And true hoe cakes should have nothing but cornmeal, salt, water and a bit of oil, preferably peanut.

Anonymous said...

I was raised up making my corn bread 2cups Selfrising meal and 1cup flour.Half stick butter and buttermilk.Bake at 450.20 to 30 minutes.Keep a eye on it.Always use a case iron skillet

Anonymous said...

I have a friend who grew up in North Carolina, and when she got married, inevitably she had to have her new inlaws over for supper. She used a cookbook to make the cornbread, and the recipe called for 1 teaspoon of sugar, which she added. At dinner her new mother inlaw took one bite, looked hard at her, and asked, "Is this yankee cornbread?"

My Mom and I were born in westerm Kentucky, Muhlenberg County, and my dad is from Bath County (his little town of Zilpo is now at the bottom of Cave Run Reservoir). None of my family from either end of the state puts sugar in their cornbread, and neither do I.